Simultaneously modest, elegant and slightly provocative, the yem silk bodice has been a staple and a symbol of Vietnamese women for centuries.
The
yem (breast cloth) id perhaps the most typical item of Vietnamese women's
clothing. A diamond or square-cut piece of cloth placed diagonally on a woman's
chest, form or in a V form, it has been worn for centuries by women of all
classes.
Traditionally
worn under a blouse or overcoat, the yem is on one hand is a symbol of modesty.
As one17 century observer, the Italian priest Cristoforo Borri remarked of
Vietnamese women:"clothes they wear could be probably the most covert in
Southeast Asia."
On
the other hand, great pride and care was taken in the beauty and design of the
yem. As Vietnam became one of the finest producers of silk in the world, much
attention was given to the bodice, which was made in many colors for different
occasions and for different social strata.
All
around ancient Thang Long City (now Hanoi), fabric weaving from traditional
craft villages of Nghi Tam, Dau and Thuy Ai developed to exquisite heights. By
the 18th Century, Vietnam made some of the finest silk in the world, such as van tu quy (silk cloth with woven design
of the four seasons), or van hong diep
(pink silk brocade).
These
beautiful silks could be found in the markets of Thang Long, available to women
of all classes. In his 1732 book entitled "Vuong Quoc Dang Ngoai"
(The Kingdom of north Vietnam), writer S. Baron noted:"The technique of
weaving silk cloth has developed here to such a degree the rich and the poor
can all wear silk clothes"
Modest
and beautiful, the simple yem in many ways symbolizes the traditional virtues
of Vietnamese women. The 17th century priest Borri was struck by their manner,
calling them "broad-minded and carefree," with "a gentle
temperament."
The
traditional yem can still be found in the countryside, worn by girls in
traditional festivals, such the Love Duets Festival of Bac Ninh. But as times
changed, so did fashions.
In
the early 20th Century as the modern ao
dai (the long split tunic typically worn by Vietnamese women) appeared, it
became difficult to wear yem underneath and Vietnamese began wearing western
brassieres instead.
However,
the yem hasn't gone away, it's just changed forms. The traditional yem has been
stylized as a part of the modern ao dai.
Instead of a high collar, some ao dai
have a yem-like top, with two strings tired together at the nape revealing the
bare shoulder.
And
modern Vietnamese girls have adopted a stylized and even more revealing yem to
wear with jeans, much like a halter top, with a fully exposed back.
But
whatever variations exist, the hidden charm of the yem worn by Vietnamese women
of old remains to help modern Vietnamese women look as elegant and graceful as
ever.
This
article written by Lanh Nguyen from Vietnam Heritage Travel
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