A
friend of time, after visiting Hue, commented that: the mossy citadels, the
palaces and temples with are covered in timeless dust, and deserted by the many
years of war. The quiet mausoleums that hide themselves under an old pine tree…
all these things inspire and capsulated the ancient and majestic feature of a
memorable old capital. But one thing that brightens Hue is “Phap Lam” (Painted
enamel bronze object). I have been astonished by the opinion of a French scholar
regarding “Phap Lam”.
Yes!
“Phap lam” has enhanced the splendid appearance of Hue palace and its
sanctuaries and shrines by the tones of color.
For
people who don’t come from Hue, “phap lam” seems to be a usual and mysterious
concept. It is understandable, because, “phap lam” is the essence of art,
architecture and culture of Hue. Even though, Hue people weren’t the inventors
of “phap lam”, (initially it was imported from china) they have imported from
china) they have in compassed the art and perfected it.
“Phap
lam” is one kind of architectural material. The core is made from bronze; the
outer layer is coated by multi colored enamels. The hardness of the enamels
helps to protect against the harsh weather conditions, hence forth protecting
it for a long time. Thus, this material is often used to make the decorative
spaniels painted with natural beauty, flora and fauna image. Chinese Han script
and verses are usually engraved on the ceiling or roof of the palace or on
ornately decorated on an array of places. There are households items made from
“phap lam”, worshiping objects, and decorative things in palaces, and in the
mausoleums of Hue, all have become precious examples inherited from the Nguyen
dynasty for posterity.
In
the 17th century, three clergymen of Societies lesu from Europe were
brought to Guangdong to develop this art using a red bronze core, five
different enamel colors were then painted over the core layer and then bunted
to get the unique finish. This technique originated from Limoges (France) and
Battersea (Uk), called painted enamels. The Chinese in Guangdong had quickly
adopted the technique of the West to produce the same products but presenting
the typical motif art of China to export to Western countries. Western people
called them Canton enamels, while Chinese called “maux hay” Painted enamel.
From
Guangdong, “phap lam” objects were carried by Chinese merchant ships all over
the world and finally reached Vietnam. Even though it’s difficult to find
documentation to prove that Chinese merchant boats brought “phap lang” to Thanh
Ha – Bao Vinh seaport (in Hue) or Hoi An (Quang Nam province). Phap lan
articles have been found from the King Khang Hi period (1661- 1722 and Can Long
dynasty (1735 – 1795) belonging to aristocratic families. Traders often traded
in Hue area and the Chinese painted enamel appeared in Hue (and Hoi An) before
Gia Long King (1802 – 1820) established the Nguyen Dynasty, painted enamel was
bought to display in altars or to decorate the living room. Since the early
times of Nguyen dynasty, the mandarins going in business to China also bought
painted enamel items to display in their reading rooms.
At
that time, Mr. Vu Van Mai from Hue, realized that the demand if using painted
enamel amongst the aristocrat class was quite sort after. He went to Guangdong
to learn the technique of painted enamel. Coming back home, Vu Van reported to
establish the very first “phap lang” workshop to satisfy the needs of Hue
citadel, this was called “Phap lang thuong cuc” (means State workshop). Nguyen
Dynasty called them “phap lam”. People said that, because the way Hue people
pronounced the words “lang” and “land” were exactly the same, so the Nguyen
Dynasty pronounced “phap lang” turning it to “phap lam” to avoid the sound
“Lan” – which used to be the royal name of the Lord Nguyen (Nguyen Phuc Lan).
Other opinions sate that the euphemism was used to avoid the sound “Lan” is the
name Ms. Tong Thi Lan, the official women of the King Gia Long. Actually, the
word “Lan” is different in hand – writing but same in sound so it was
prohibited due to the tabooed names of Nguyen dynasty.
Hue
people also used “phap lam” items to store food and drink in. the highly
decorated bowls with dragons, clouds or flowers even pictures of trading ships
coming from the west to trade in Hue were found on the bowls appeared during
the Tu Duc period. “Phap lam” also can be found in a favorite game in Hue
called “Dau ho” (one kind of throwing dart). This game was often set up in the
palace or in the Nguyen dynasty at spring time. It was recorded in history that
Tu Duc and Bao Dai king were the masters at this game. This game were beloved
so much then King Nguyen ordered the artisans to make many “dau ho” (like a
China decanter) in many different kinds of materials such as wood, pottery, and
even bronze glued together and decorated in painted enamel.
“Hue
phap lam” today has been brought back to life; the new workshops in Hue have
been producing lots of “phap lam” objects with new innovated techniques and new
styles, forms and colors, making suitable with the current Hue lifestyle. I
myself sincerely hope that: in the future the painted enamel art will be
displayed in Hue houses as it used to be”.
This
article written by Lanh Nguyen from Vietnam Heritage Travel
For
original article, please visit:
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