Saturday, August 6, 2011

Hidden silk


The undergarment id often the unsung of fashion – but women’s outfits are rarely complete without it. PF take gander at the history of the brassiere in Hanoi, by visiting an ancient site at that was once this silk garment’s commercial epicenter.

Renovating Hang Dao
In April 200, the communal house at 38 Hang Dao Street was renovated for 600 million VND, an amount that was sponsored donations raised in Toulouse. France. This house was brassiere market.

The space on Hang Dao has a traditional style with an enclosed courtyard, a two – story house, and a partitioned back yard full of flowers and grass.

Special attention was paid designed traditionally with a tall middle door nestled between two smaller side doors. The outer yellow gate is decorated with lines of black Han script, which parallel sentences are created by experts. “The five Han characters are dong lac quyen yem thi, “explains Professor Tran Quoc Vuong, “which means Dong Lac silk brassiere market.”

Hanoi or Thang Long as it was once called was city of rivers and lakes. In ancient times, addresses ending in even numbers were and had to be lower than the number of rows of houses.
Hang Dao Street formerly ran into Thai Cuc and Ho Guom lakes, which were connected by a small rivulet and then became Cau Go Thai Cuc guilds shared a selling street, following the rile for Hanoi’s original 36 streets: “one street but two guilds”.

The most important relic at the Dong Lac communal house is the stone stele fixed on the wall near the second floor shrine. Worn from tome and weather, the steel is very difficult to read, yet Professor Tran made out four characters “quyen yem thi dinh” which means “the community of the old silk brassiere market” According to Professor Tran, Mr. Nguyen Cong Trung and Mrs. Nguyen Thi Tu built the Dong Lac house after the Le dynasty and the house was burned in a fire sometime before 1856.

Ancient Silk Brassiere Market
The brassiere market in Vietnam was made possible by a thriving textile industry. Mulberry planting, silk worm farming. Cocoon processing and silk weaving that princess Thieu Hoa, Hung Vuong’s sixth daughter, invented silk weaving.
Around Thang Long, the burgeoning textile industry triggered the birth of many craft villages, some of these villages can still be visited today.

Raw silk can be refined into delicate materials such as brocade satin, and chiffon. In the 18th century, Vietnamese wove beautiful silk such as Four Seasons and Red Leaf silk. By the early 19th century, the textile industry in Thang Long and North Vietnam was extremely prosperous mother region of Vietnam, one author remarketed that weaving silk was a socio-economic equalizer the sector was so developed that both rich and poor in Vietnam both could afford to wear silk clothes.

At fancy festivals or in the fields, all women wore a brassiere, short jacket and dress. Brassieres were clung diagonally over the chest with a circular collar – without exposing as much skin as modern brassieres do.

Vietnamese women usually bought silk to sew brassieres themselves at markets such as the Dong Lac silk brassiere market. Excellent silk products from various trade villages fascinated the women of Thang Long, especially in the days preceding festivals, when women flocked to the markets to buy materials for undergarment, jackets and kerchiefs – each aiming to look her best.
In the early 20th century, inspired by the brassiere ensemble, painters Le Pho and Cat Tuong invented the modern ao dai (long dress). From the shoulders to the waist clings to the body, reflecting European styles. The high – cut slits make the outfit suggestive, yet also a conservative homage to the single beauty of the traditional brassiere.

Along with the advent of the ao dai in Vietnam, however, came the replacement of traditional brassieres with western underwear called “xu chieng” after the French word for brassiere: “soutien.” The traditional brassiere is still worn by some folk singers and old ladies with blackened teeth, chewing betel nut in villages of the northern delta.

The Italian priest Cristoforo Borri, who lived in Vietnam between 1618 and 1621, praised Vietnamese women in his “Southern Vietnam Chronicle, “staling, “Vietnamese women’s character was the gentlest in the east … Their clothes were the most discreet in Southeast Asia.”
The charm that he so astutely noticed is, of course, due in part to the traditional style brassiere.

This article written by Lanh Nguyen from Vietnam Heritage Travel
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